A new wave of designers and consumers is rediscovering the beauty of imperfection, as salt and pepper diamonds return to the spotlight in the UK and beyond. Once overlooked for their inclusions and cloudy appearance, these distinctive stones – nicknamed “dusty” or even “Dalmatian” diamonds for their speckled patterns–are now celebrated for their unique character and understated charm.
A Rebellion Against Perfection
For many years, the diamond industry has prized stones based on the “four Cs”: carat, color, clarity, and cut. But a growing number of jewelers and buyers are rejecting that rigid system in favor of stones that tell their own story.
According to Lisa Levinson, UK head of the Natural Diamond Council, “There’s a greater appreciation of these types of natural diamonds, as pioneering jewelry designers use them and consumers seeking stones with personality embrace them.”
Levinson adds that while prices for salt and pepper diamonds have risen, they remain more affordable than traditional flawless whites. Their inclusions also hold geological significance–some containing the oldest and most pristine samples of Earth’s mantle, offering rare scientific insight into the planet’s composition.
Designers Rediscover the Beauty of Imperfection
In London, Bear Brooksbank recalls how the early 2010’s saw the first surge of popularity for salt and pepper diamonds–a trend that waned with the rise of lab-grown alternatives. “With the wave of clean, minimalist consumerism that came with lab-grown diamonds, fatigue has set in again, and salt and pepper diamonds are back in vogue,” she explains.
Across the Atlantic, US designers Lauren Wolf and Rebecca Overmann, co-founders of Melee The Show, agree. They describe the renewed interest as “a second cycle” of a trend that first captured attention a decade ago.
A Wide Spectrum of Style
London-based Scottish jeweller Ellis Mhairi Cameron, who has showcased her work in Melee’s New York and Paris exhibitions, has embraced these diamonds for their tonal diversity. “My clients and I choose these stones for their visual interest, not because they’re at a lower price point than a flawless white,” she says. Cameron has incorporated the stones into engagement rings and cocktail pieces.
Her clients are drawn to the uniqueness of each stone. “The idea that no one else would have the same diamond feels really special,” Cameron notes. Her work is now available through Liberty London and 1924 at the Gleneagles Hotel, both of which have embraced the aesthetic of natural imperfection.
Cameron spoke about sourcing a “moody, pear-shaped rose cut” diamond for a client who wanted a dark, stormy-grey stone with minimal translucence – while for another, she used small salt and pepper diamonds in a men’s wedding band as subtle, unexpected details.
A Shift in Masculine Aesthetics
Salt and pepper diamonds are also finding favor among male customers. Elliot Andre, a London-based jeweler, incorporates them into designs for his brand EX-A Studio. He says the subdued, imperfect look appeals to men seeking sophistication without excessive sparkle.
Jeweler Sophie Keegan, who bought her first salt and pepper diamond in 2009, continues to champion their raw beauty. Her statement “rock ring” features a six-carat stone, chosen, as she puts it, “for its even display of salt, pepper, and liveliness.”
From Necessity to Niche
For Rachel Boston, an East London designer, the embrace of imperfect diamonds began as a necessity. “As a young jeweler, I wouldn’t have been able to start with white diamonds in 2012,” she says. Over time, her unconventional approach evolved into a signature style – particularly her Grey Halo engagement ring (£8,250), which frames a white diamond with grey baguette cuts.
Boston’s creations appeal to her largely Millennial and Gen Z clientele, who value authenticity over convention. However, sourcing suitable stones remains challenging, as finding well-cut grey diamonds in matching tones can be laborious.
To meet demand, Boston partners with Misfit Diamonds, a Vancouver-based wholesaler founded by Ashkan Asgari, which specializes in “imperfect” diamonds. Misfit’s transparent sourcing and wide range of unique cuts have made it a go-to supplier for designers like Boston. “They champion traceability, which is difficult in the diamond industry,” she says.
Not Everyone Is Convinced
Despite their rising popularity, not all gemologists are keen on the trend. Traditionalists argue that diamonds’ defining feature is their brilliance, but inclusions ruin that. Historically, included diamonds were used only for industrial purposes such as polishing grit.
Gemstone historian Rui Galopim de Carvalho points out that the embrace of included stones represents a modern departure from centuries of tradition. “Historically, there was no such thing as affordable or special-price jewelry–only gem quality was good enough for jewelry making,” he explains.
The resurgence of salt and pepper diamonds marks more than just a stylistic shift–reflects a broader generational change in how people view luxury. Much like the rise of natural wines or imperfect ceramics, the stones are seen as celebrating authenticity, individuality, and the beauty found in flaws.
Philip Carter for Rough&Polished from London
