Tatyana Mikhalkova, Honorary Member of the Russian Academy of Arts and President of the Russian Silhouette Foundation, is engaged in a number of projects aimed at supporting Russian designers. She shared her views on jewelry in her interview to Rough&Polished.
You are interested in the jewelry theme. Do you often take part in jewelry events?
Recently, there was the Velvet Seasons Festival in Sochi attended by all jewelry brands, then there was a fashion week in Moscow – on such occasions you always have a chance to see eye-catching jewelry pieces. Right now we are celebrating the centenary of Diaghilev’s Seasons, and in Yekaterinburg the Art Academy together with city held special evenings dedicated to this event. Many young designers participated in a contest of costume and jewelry sketches. It was evident that they studied Bakst, the works of Koko Chanel and Picasso, who had taken part in setting up scenery for Russian ballets. The first premium was awarded to the Firebird Collection – earrings, a necklace and even a crown evoked by Stravinsky's ballet. Formerly, our designers took part in contests organized by De Beers and ALROSA, and recently they went to a show offered by Ninа Ricci and Givenchy – my young designers, when on probation training abroad, usually work along the jewelry line. The research quests undertaken by young designers are as a rule very interesting – I wish they were lucky with the economic environment, so that they were able to go on their own and exist for a long-long time.
You often meet world-level stars, such as Meryl Streep or Julia Ormond. What kind of jewelry do they prefer in private life?
Meryl came to stay with us with her husband and daughter – you feel as if she is your old friend, there was nothing of a star in her. She is a brilliant actress – a kind, soft and conflict-free person, and a tremendous mother. She wore no jewelry – of course, festivals or Oscars have there own protocol, but in real life she looks very modestly, although this modesty is beautiful and adequate. During a film festival Carrera y Carrera gave her a gift - earrings from its new Taj Mahal Collection made of white gold with diamonds and sapphires chosen by her for the ceremony. And my girlfriend took a thread of pearls off herself and gave it to her as a gift in token of respect. Meryl was moved to tears … And Julia Ormond did not wish to put on a fur coat even during her movie shooting in Siberia, and Nikita spent a long time trying to persuade her. She lives in London and is an active member of the Green Party. By the way, during our displays on Trafalgar Square our clothes were also made fur inside.
What are your strongest impressions of the jewelry you have seen?
Museum things from the Russian Diamond Fund and from the Hermitage vaults, and certainly, the works of Faberge. As for modern jewelry, I am attracted by Andrey Ananov's works; incidentally, when I was awarded the Order of Mercy it was a medallion of his work with a red cross - it opens and inside you see the image of the Divine Mother. But Faberge is Faberge …
Do you have family things or some favorite piece of jewelry?
My daughters have the gifts given by their grandmother, Natalia Konchalovskaya. Once she handed over almost all of her jewelry to the Peace Fund, but gave gifts to all the girls in our family line and also to her daughters-in-law on the occasions of their grandchildren. My favorite piece of jewelry is an asterisk-shaped brooch which she gave me on the occasion of my son Artem’s birth. I do not know its value, but this thing is my favorite although I rarely wear it. Such things may be inexpensive - we have never estimated their value - they are more like memory.
What kind of world-renowned brands would you prefer?
Perhaps, it is Carrera y Carrera. When we hold contests for young designers, we have a Carrera’s jewelry prize – a special watch for young designers. And when we had shows during the Moscow Festival we took jewelry pieces from this house. This jewelry house is 150 years old and that in itself is a characteristic of this brand.
What jewelry trends seem to you peculiar?
Now it is fashionable to mix real antique - ancient, ‘left by your grandma’ - things with ultramodern pieces. It is fashionable to carry many bracelets - expensive vanguard things and those bought on flea markets which are currently also fashionable to visit even by well-off ladies. Sometimes it looks teasing.
Combining different styles demands taste confidence. Wouldn’t it be safer to stick to a well-known and seasoned brand?
It is difficult to give advice in this case. Choosing clothes and jewelry is a creative process for any woman. Personally for me jewelry pieces are first of all works of art. Although it is certainly pleasant when you are given diamonds as gifts.
Galina Semyonova, Rough&Polished
