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Nathalie Guedj: “Quality and style do not require compromises”

04 may 2010

Carrera y Carrera is the only Spanish trademark which has become a well-known brand turning to be one of the five leaders in the global jewelry market and which has over 300 sales outlets worldwide. As a trademark Carrera y Сarrera started in the 19th century from a small workshop in the centre of Madrid where the two Carrera cousins were initially engaged in the business of cutting diamonds. A major breakthrough was experienced by the trademark under Manuel Carrera who introduced the brand to the international market. Today Carrera y Сarrera is the supplier to the crowned heads of the world and a favourite brand of many celebrities - Giselle Bundchen, Claudia Schiffer, Mariah Carey, Melanie Griffith, Meryl Streep and Barbara Streisand. It has among its admirers Antonio Banderas, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Placido Domingo and many others. Carrera y Carrera figurines are ordered by many collectors, including Nicky Oppenheimer, the president of De Beers.

From 2006 the company is headed by Nathalie Guedj, the former president of Van Cleef & Arpels USA, who also worked for Cartier in Belgium. Mrs. Guedj has kindly agreed to answer the questions of Galina Semyonova, Rough&Polished correspondent.

Carrera y Carrera started its business in diamond cutting - what place does this stone occupy in your product range today?

Of course, speaking about jewelry, we cannot avoid the theme of diamond – it is impossible to do without it in jewelry production, it is a stone which appeals to every person, and I consider it as the most universal of stones. Recognizing it, we are still trying to avoid pavé diamonds because they are virtually made by all. Diamonds in jewelry pieces manufactured by Carrera y Carrera are first of all noted for their individuality.

Carrera y Сarrera commands significant presence in the market extending its branches to the U.S. and Japan. And what place in your marketing policy is taken by Russia?

Russia is an important market for Carrera y Carrera. We came to Russia in the 1990s, and this year we opened there our branch. Earlier in Russia there were a few trademarks willing to get into provinces with their majority staying only in Moscow. And Carrera y Carrera was the first brand which went to Russian provinces. Our jewelry pieces are sold not only in Ritz-Carlton in Moscow, but also and in Saint Petersburg and other Russian cities. It was a great risk as we represent the luxury segment earlier almost unknown in Russian provinces. We had to do a lot of hard work finding right distributors, right trading houses, training our staff, but on the other hand we had no competitors in Russian provinces. Today the situation is changing both in Moscow and in Russia as a whole as more and more world brands pay attention to provinces and competition will start growing in a big way.

Does the crisis make Carrera y Сarrera introduce any changes in its ideology?

No, no and no. The crisis has not made us change our philosophy or production. The quality, skill and traditions remained unchanged. Our trademark is unique and the experience acquired by our jewelers is passed from generation to generation; until now all our jewelry pieces are made manually in Madrid – of course we have no such production volumes as the trademarks where production is industrial, but we have occupied our market niche a long time ago and no crisis can prevent it. Jewelry pieces from Carrera y Carrera, besides their refined style and faultless quality, have special charisma that in itself is a value. Our trademark is inseparably linked with Spain, and Spain is a crossroads on which there was going centuries-long mutual penetration between the Catholic, Jewish and Arab cultures giving us a special source of our inspiration. If we work in a luxury niche, we should not compromise about quality and style.

Has the Basel Fair shown any revival of activity?

In fact, the beginning of this year was successful enough. The fruits of Basel will come a bit later, but also in the first three months of this year sales were very high. Demand for our pieces has increased, there are much more orders for our products, especially in comparison with the last year's first quarter. I cannot say that we reached the pre-crisis level, but there is a real hope that this will occur in the course of the year.

What are you going to please admirers with in 2010?

The main premiere of this year is the Palacios del Sur Collection. We are speaking about the south of Spain – of such cities as Seville, Cordoba and Granada. For example, this geometrical pattern is the pattern of apertures and windows in the palaces of the south of Spain, and the basic motive here is the arch of Alhambra. This year we also introduce a new line, El Bestiario – it is a line of wild animals which brings us back to the trademark’s origin. And the trademark’s origin lies in the art of sculpture: Carrera y Carrera is known for its sculpture whose samples you may come across in the best museums of the world - the Royal Museum in Madrid, White House in Washington and Moscow Kremlin; Manuel Carrera is known worldwide as the “Spanish Faberge.” Look at this tiger, it’s virtually real, only made as a miniature. This is a jewelry piece which positions a woman as very courageous and strong, who likes to risk. This is our new Bamboo Collection in which we had pendants and earrings, but had no large necklace. This one set has also a bracelet. We wanted to create an evening ornament which we did not have for the red carpets, film festivals, for any important events. We have also designed new versions of our Aqua Collection - it was missing long earrings and a necklace which could be carried both by day and by night depending on the chosen clothes. And, of course, one more news of this year - new motives for watches: this year we have introduced jewelry watches, and every year we offer new watch covers. This model has a very high potential. Of course, there are its versions with diamonds.

Your brand is especially popular in cinema - is there any special secret?

We have long-time partner and friendly relations with the world of movies. For 11 years we have been taking part in the Moscow Film Festival as its official jewelry partner. We are also partners of the Spanish film award of Goya. And preferences of movie stars quite often give us pleasant surprises. Scarlett Johansson in Cannes on the first run of Match Point was in Garden of Roses from Carrera y Сarrera. This necklace, given to her by her boy friend as a gift, was purchased in Bulgaria, and we did not even know about it and saw it only in a photo. Probably, it brought good luck to her for this film has made her famous. Or Michel Rodriguez, the new fan of our brand, starring in Avatar – she is a brunette and of course the Circulos de Fuego Collection suits her well. The Carrera y Сarrera admirers have one common feature - they are very courageous women who do not just follow fashion but who set the style. And they love unique jewelry pieces. In much the same way as we do.

Galina Semyonova, Rough&Polished, Switzerland