In 2005, ABN AMRO, BHP Billiton Diamonds, Cartier (part of Richemont), World Jewellery Confederation, Diamond Trading Company (part of De Beers), Diarough, Jewelers of America, National Association of Goldsmiths (UK), Newmont Mining, Rio Tinto, Rosy Blue, Signet Group, Tiffany & Co., and Zale Corporation came together to form the Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices later transformed to the Responsible Jewellery Council which sees its main goal in increasing consumer confidence in diamond and gold jewellery. Michael Rae, Chief Executive Officer of RJC, explained to Rough&Polished how it is being done.
Could you briefly describe how the Responsible Jewellery Council was established and what goals are pursued by your organization?
The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) is an international not-for-profit organization established in 2005 by a group of 14 organizations from a cross section of the diamond and gold jewellery business. The RJC is governed by a Board of Directors, supported by a number of Committees and administered by a Management Team located in Australia, Canada, Italy and the United Kingdom. The core objective of the RJC is to strengthen and protect the reputation of the jewellery industry.
The Council has developed the RJC Member Certification System, a certification system – which will apply to all Members’ businesses that contribute to the diamond, gold and platinum metals jewellery supply chain. Members must be audited by accredited, third party auditors to verify their conformance with the Code of Practices. The scope of the Code of Practices embraces:
- Business Ethics: – upholding ethical business practices.
- Human Rights and Social Performance: – upholding fundamental human rights, treating workers and communities fairly and with respect, encouraging a diverse workforce, and provision of a safe working environment.
- Environmental Performance: – promoting efficient use of resources and energy, protecting biodiversity and reducing and preventing pollution.
- Management Systems: – compliance with applicable law, assessing impacts and benefits, establishing policy, and managing business risks including contractors, suppliers and partners.
How has your work progressed up to now? What have you achieved?
The RJC Member Certification System represents over three years of engagement with all levels of the diamond and gold industries and includes viewpoints of civil society and other like-minded organizations, being unique and the first initiative of its kind in any industry that examines the full spectrum of a supply chain. The RJC Member Certification System was launched in December 2009. We had the first Certified Member in August 2010 and we have announced the eighth Certified Member last week. Approximately 120 Members need to be certified by 31 December 2011 and nearly all have the Self Assessment towards Certification underway. We look forward to announcing their achievements over the coming months.
In what way do you attract new members?
Through RJC membership, its members, large, medium and small, have demonstrated a clear commitment to adhere to the RJC’s responsible ethical, human rights, social and environmental practices that can be applied to all members of the supply chain, from mine to retail. RJC has experienced impressive membership growth since its inception in May 2005. We have grown at nearly 5% per year from 14 founding members to nearly 300. This growth tells us that significant parts of the jewellery supply chain, from mine to retail, are making a commitment to demonstrating responsible business practices in their organizations. Certified Members have the benefit of recognition against an international certification system, supporting their own reputations and enhancing consumer confidence in the jewellery supply chain more generally.
What is included in the framework of cooperation with the United Nations?
The Responsible Jewellery Council was officially registered as a Participant to the United Nations Global Compact on January 15th, 2009. RJC made a commitment to set in motion changes to business operations so that the Global Compact and its ten principles become part of strategy, culture and day-to-day operations; to publicly advocate the Global Compact and its principles via available communications channels; and, to communicate annually and publicly on progress made in implementing the Global Compact principles. The RJC Communications on Progress are available at: http://www.unglobalcompact.org/participants/detail/7979-Responsible-Jewellery-Council.
Who are your largest members?
RJC welcomes all companies – large, medium and small. In its membership there are large organizations as well as single unit businesses. These small businesses range from jewellery manufacturing to retail shops. While large retailers are the ones who first felt the necessity to create RJC, it was always the philosophy of the RJC to include all companies, large and small. A full list of the RJC Members can be found on the web at www.responsiblejewellery.com.
From your point of view, how does the diamond market look like today and how does it fit into the requirements for the jewelry industry?
The jewellery industry has always prided itself on its professionalism and creativity. Issues like conflict diamonds and dirty gold have brought the issues of responsible business practices to the forefront. The creation of the RJC shows the jewellery industry feels a strong and vital commitment to credibly demonstrating to consumers its commitment to properly address the social, ethical and environmental issues that affect their industry.
What can you say about the situation with diamonds in Zimbabwe? Do you work together with the Kimberley Process?
On 19 March 2011, Mathieu Yamba, the current Chair of the Kimberley Process, (KP), announced that stocks and production from the Mbada and Canadile mining concessions in Marange, Zimbabwe, can be exported with “immediate effect.” However, a number of KP participants have challenged Yamba’s decision on procedural grounds. Efforts are currently underway within the KP to work through the issues.
Until there is further clarity on the KP-compliance of diamonds from the Marange region, RJC recommends that Members do not trade in these diamonds. RJC continues to advise its Members to exercise the necessary due diligence to protect the integrity of the diamonds in which they trade.
The RJC Code of Practices includes specific provisions requiring conformance with the KPCS for rough diamonds and the World Diamond Council’s System of Warranties for polished diamonds. As part of the RJC Certification process, RJC Members undergo independent, third party auditing of their relevant business practices to evidence their conformance with the RJC’s Code of Practices.
Moreover, the RJC is continuing consultations with stakeholders on the development of a RJC Chain-of-Custody certification standard for the diamond, gold and platinum jewellery supply chains. RJC Chain-of-Custody certification would be voluntary and complementary to the RJC’s existing independent third party certification of its Members’ responsible business practices.
It is RJC’s intent that this Chain-of-Custody certification standard will assist those companies wishing to credibly assure consumers as to the credibility of claims made about the provenance of their jewellery.
The RJC website has further information on the RJC Member Certification System and the Code of Practices: www.responsiblejewellery.com.
Is there any progress in cooperation between GIA and RJC?
GIA has established the international benchmark for grading laboratories and there is a fundamental logic for our organizations to leverage the strength of our standards and global approaches. RJC offers GIA the opportunity to certify its business practices against the RJC System. By becoming certified, GIA will have the benefit of recognition against an international certification system and to actively contribute to Sustainable Development and to cultivate future generations of ethical business leaders.
What is the most urgent problem for jewelers now?
There is indeed a new consumer mindset. Consumers care about the origin of the materials in their jewellery, who made the jewellery and how it was made. However, “doing the right thing” is an all-embracing commitment and responsibility that transcends any consumer research.
Veronica Novoselova, Rough&Polished correspondent in Italy
