Paola De Luca, one of the world’s leading authorities on forecasting jewellery design trends and co-founder and Creative Director of Trends Jewellery Forecasting Group (TJF), spoke at the keynote presentation on trends in jewelry forecasting at JCK Las Vegas on June, 4th. She addressed upcoming jewelry design directions, materials, colors, textures as well as new concepts and trends. Paola also emphasized that jewelry trends originate from changes in society and consumer attitudes and they are first formed within a society before they appear on the catwalks and trade shows. After her very impressive presentation, Paola de Luca talked to Rough&Polished.
What do you think of JCK Show in Las Vegas this year?
It's important to be here, it's important to see what's happening, because this trade show is not only a platform for the American designers, but also a platform for South American ones, a lot of Brazilians are here and also industry people from all over the world. There's a percentage of Italians, Indians, Chinese, etc. We have some confirmation of things that we've forecasted before as I mentioned earlier at the presentation today. I also think that the fair is trying to reposition itself to a certain degree. They try to show that now they have Haute Couture, Luxury, various crafts. This is really a metamorphosis of the jewelry sector - there is a very broad range of product lines and product directions in different categories. I think it's important to understand that.
Do you think the North American jewelry market is going to remain the biggest market this year or its main competitors, India and China, will overcome it in the near future?
I believe that America is still going to be the important market. But there're different products for different markets. India is more difficult to penetrate because unique knowledge and understanding of the local market matter more there than anywhere else. There's a very big business in bridal jewelry which is pretty much associated with traditional cultural background of India. If you're not familiar with it, there's no rule. The customs and import procedures, tax structure in India are also very "locked in" there, which also make it more difficult to penetrate India's market. But it is definitely a highly desirable market for luxury. The Indians are very sophisticated in jewelry design, they have thousands of years of expertise in jewelry making. Women there don't take just any jewelry. They would prefer local jewelry in most cases, unless they are fantastic and very unique pieces.
Chinese are a little different as they are not yet mature in luxury products. I'm talking about democratic spectrum, affordable luxury and masses. I would say that Western brands are very desirable for 4 to 5 percent of the Chinese billionaires.
Would you please highlight a few main trends in jewelry fashion this year?
People want to have local jewelry. It means going back to the roots, local craftsmanship, could be of American, could be of Italian or of Chinese origin. Everything that gives a sense of history, heritage and tradition and reflected in jewelry design is very much requested in modern society. Satin finishes, oxidized metals everything that speaks history. New minimalism that doesn't mean there's no jewelry, it means less is more. Color has also been very important in the past couple of seasons. Circus, everything which is fun, poetry, even fairy tales represent one of the leading trends this season.
Olga Patseva, Editor in Chief of the Rough&Polished American Bureau
