Lately, Brazil is more and more seen as a strong competitor in the international jewelry market. Brazilian brands stand out strongly compared with others offering unusual jewelry with sensuous Latin motifs. The quality and unique jewelry design are quite worthy of close attention, while vivid Brazilian gems need an in-depth research. In a relatively short period of time the jewelry industry in Brazil has attained excellent results, recognition and success. At VicenzaOro, we had a chance to talk to Ricardo Vianna, CEO and President of VIANNA, which is a popular Brazilian brand.
Could you tell our readers how VIANNA was established?
We were fortunate to establish this company in Brazil, the country of many gemstones and diamond deposits, where there are mined more than 1,000 kinds of precious stones. Therefore, from its very start VIANNA began to specialize in manufacturing jewellery with Brazilian gems. In our workshops you may see the third generation of famous Brazilian jewelers. They pass their skill from generation to generation and thanks to this inherited talent, we were able to create a unique design for our jewelry pieces. All the production stages are performed by ourselves, from sorting and cutting stones to selling our jewelry goods.
What is the difference between the Italian and Brazilian designs?
The Italian design has always been considered the most prestigious design from the global point of view. And we understand that only having such strong competition, we were able to grow and enter the international market, for which we had to show a unique style.
Brazil gives a great source of inspiration, it is a great country with great resources, rich culture and a unique Brazilian way of life.
The Brazilian people is very spirited, as maybe no other people in the world, there are many glamorous personalities there. Brazilian women are very flamboyant. They are the greatest fans and consumers of huge amounts of colorful jewelry. In this Brazil is different from any other country, and from the Italian style. In all of our collections, we are trying to show the Brazilian way of life to other women the world over.
Could you say a few words about the jewelry market in Brazil?
Generally speaking, it may be said that the Brazilian economy is growing steadily and this makes it possible for many people in Brazil to buy jewelry.
The jewelry market is also expanding turning stronger, but we still have a lot of work to do. The Association of Jewelry Manufacturers of Brazil has a sufficient number of factories. Brazil is a vast country with a population of more than 200 million people. We have a huge market, but it is not well developed. There is a government project to support the jewelry manufacturers in this country aimed at promoting Brazilian jewelry brands overseas. Brazil still is not strong enough as a source of jewelry, and only a few companies are working to export to international markets. We still have to work and work hard to get fame and recognition in the world. Our main markets are now South America, Eastern and Western Europe, Russia and the Middle East.
Almost all of your products are graced with diamond inserts. Why do you add diamond luster to your jewelry?
The diamond, as a precious stone, lends completeness to the product. Jewelry is essentially meant to be adorned with precious stones. And of course, diamonds are very helpful, adding greater value to our goods.
VIANNA jewelry pieces differ from others in that they have inserts of very large stones about 30-50 carats in size. How did you get that idea?
Exploring the physical properties of rocks deeper, each time we find new opportunities and unusual solutions to create new forms and types of facets, which subsequently serve to further emphasize the unique beauty of natural stones.
Our design team has done a great job playing with stones, their shapes and sizes, and also with their cross-cuts to find the touch and make our collections unique. In my opinion, we've achieved this.
But on the other hand, it is a big problem to make great jewelry at a good price. This is a challenge, so we are making jewelry taking into account the wishes and financial abilities of our customers. At the same time we have a very expensive collection for jewelry connoisseurs.
Our jewelry is dominated by inserts of such stones as quartz of different shades, black agate, sapphire, ruby, topaz, emerald, brazilite, tourmaline, and we also use amethysts of unique colors, as well as green amethysts just recently turned famous.
Tourmalines of rare hues are very valuable finds that can be discovered only in Brazil. They were given the name of Paraiba in honor of the area where they were found. Sometimes you may come across a very rare tourmaline of unique neon blue color never found in any other stone in the world. Currently, such gems are priced higher that diamonds. Perhaps, it would be not an easy thing to find a price category in the gem market ranging from $40,000 to $50,000 per carat.
VIANNA jewelry bears a unique design. How do you protect your design from copying?
We are businessmen, and, of course, legally, we always take care to protect our projects, our work, but believe me, in fact, the only protection may be a unique line of jewelry. Everything will depend on how long your collection will be unique.
In your view, how can the crisis affect small-scale jewelry manufacturers?
Crisis is always the best time for new opportunities. You can always find the best option. When the market becomes difficult, and people are afraid to spend money on jewelry, you need to come up with something special, try to strengthen the brand and support sales. This is an opportunity to make oneself noticed. And when the economy recovers, then you will sell even better and become recognized as a strong brand.
I can say with confidence that winners are those who are most correct in their performance.
What international exhibitions do you visit and what results do you get from taking part in them?
Lately it became important for us to visit such European shows as VicenzaOro and BaselWorld. VicenzaOro hosted almost the entire jewelry market of Italy, as well as many European and Asian countries. This exhibition offers quite a different environment for jewelry makers. It gives you an opportunity to see exclusive collections, get an update on recent developments in technology, meet professional people, make new relationships, find new partners and meet with your clients. This kind of exhibition gives you the best chance to do it.
Have you noticed people buying jewelry as an investment?
Not in Brazil, this country is absolutely different in this respect. In Brazil, people buy jewelry pieces for the fun of wearing them. For me, jewelry is some sign of an event. Jewelry includes gold, diamonds and other precious stones, but I do not view all this as investment assets. Jewelry fashion is meant to please yourself, to show your status, power, and above all to show that you are a person of taste, a swinger. Jewellery is the world of art, elegance and glamor.
I think people in Russia have much in common with the Brazilian people, and Russian women are very similar to Brazilian women in many aspects, especially in their life style.
Veronica Novoselova, Rough&Polished correspondent in Italy
