Dmitry Fedorov: I want our jewelry to be displayed at a museum in the future

Dmitry Fedorov is the founder of the eponymous jewelry house. His main focus is the creation of Orthodox-inspired premium luxury jewelry of high artistic merit. He told Rough&Polished about his journey in the jewelry industry, about choosing the ‘Orthodox...

28 october 2024

Responsible business practices ‘no longer optional’, says WDC President Feriel Zerouki

The president of the World Diamond Council takes time out of her busy schedule to tell Rough&Polished readers about the critical work of the WDC. Zerouki, the first female present of the body, which includes all the important industry organizations among...

14 october 2024

James Campbell: Botswana Diamonds optimistic as it enters uncharted territory of using AI for mineral exploration

London-listed Botswana Diamonds has expressed optimism about the company’s use of artificial intelligence (AI) to scan the exploration database in Botswana to look for new mineralised deposits. Company managing director James Campbell told Rough...

07 october 2024

Artur Salyakayev: For me, happiness is freedom to make my ideas happen and create valuable products

Artur Salyakayev is an art entrepreneur, founder of the International Jewelry Academy (IJA) and the INCRUA jewelry company. He has initiated and developed successful projects in jewelry industry and services sector. He is also a leading expert...

30 september 2024

Paul Zimnisky: China key for sustained recovery in demand for natural diamonds, prices

The curtailing of upstream and midstream natural diamond production in the past months is starting to have an effect on prices, according to the New-York-based independent diamond and jewellery analyst and consultant, Paul Zimnisky. He told Rough & Polished’s...

23 september 2024

Iconic Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond Zip Necklace sold for €819,000 at Christie’s Joaillerie Paris

14 july 2022
news_14072022_christies.png
                                                 Image credit: Christie's

A true masterpiece of ingenuity and one of the most innovative pieces of jewelry ever made, the Van Cleef & Arpels Zip Necklace went under the hammer at Christie's Joaillerie Paris for €819,000, getting almost three times its high estimate.
The buyer of the iconic necklace not only purchased a piece of high jewelry, but also turned privy to its rich and intriguing history.
As per Christie’s, the legend begins in the 1930s, when the Duchess of Windsor, then known as one of the most elegant and fashionable women in the world and a loyal client of the House, asked Renée Puissant, daughter of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef and the House's Creative Director between 1926 and 1942, to create a piece of jewellery inspired by the zipper to be worn with her evening dresses. This request suggested a long and complex design process requiring patience and tenacity from the atelier.
Although the patent for the design was filed in 1938, it was not until 1951 that Van Cleef & Arpels presented its first "Zip" necklace. Capturing the spirit and style of the 1950s, the "Zip" necklace is not only a beautiful and versatile piece of jewellery, but also a stunning technical achievement. The top part of the necklace can be detached, and the remaining section can be reassembled to form a bracelet, leaving the gold tassel hanging off one side. This versatility brings a sense of play to the design of Haute Joaillerie.
Very few of these iconic jewels were made in the 1950s, a fact that explains why the few examples offered at auction are highly sought after by collectors.
Still in high demand more than seventy years after its creation, the ability of the "Zip" necklace to stand the test of time is testament to its innovative and iconic design, Christie’s said drawing the line under this outstanding auction event.