Following Brexit, UK independent jewelry brands are rethinking the advantages of showcasing their collections at events on the European continent.
Many smaller brands have been caught off guard by customs charges and differing hallmarking rules.
London-based fine jeweller Tomasz Donocik recounted how French customs officials issued fines to exhibitors without the correct paperwork at a Paris show earlier this year. These penalties, amounting to 10% of the jewelry's value, were imposed on those lacking an ATA carnet—an international customs document that acts as a temporary passport for goods, according to a report in the Financial Times.
Donocik was exhibiting at Goldrush, a wholesale jewellery show held during Paris Fashion Week. Other events, such as NouvelleBox and Melee The Show, which originates from New York, have sprung up alongside, attracting international jewelers eager to take advantage of the growing influx of buyers to the city.
Word of French customs inspections quickly reached Paul Alger, international business director at the UK Fashion and Textile Association. He regularly assists UK jewelers and apparel brands struggling with post-Brexit trade regulations.
“It’s not straightforward for non-French companies,” he says. “Even if UK jewelers are hand-carrying pieces, I’d advise them to use an ATA carnet and declare their goods at St Pancras [train station in London] and on the Eurostar [train] before arriving in Paris. It’s not perfect, but it’s the only official route for samples.”
Darren Hildrow, founder of NouvelleBox, had his own encounter with customs in March and is determined to avoid future surprises. He now works with a French advisor to create a detailed guide for exhibitors, covering customs procedures, hallmarking requirements, and necessary documents.
Donocik notes that carrying a carnet, which costs around £350 and is valid for a year, prevents selling at events but ensures compliance with customs. “It must be declared and signed at entry and exit points, which isn’t always simple on the Eurostar,” he explains. Any misstep can result in penalties.
Selling jewelry in France, Donocik found, is even more complex. He experienced this firsthand during a 2021 auction with Christie’s in Paris. “To sell, you need a French hallmark and special VAT paperwork,” he says. The process involves working with a third party and navigating strict regulations. For his small business, the effort isn’t worthwhile for just a few sales.
Philip Carter for Rough&Polished from London
