Consumers show a high interest to color jewels. People from trade, journalists and analytics of the branch unanimously tell so. Color jewels are in great demand at jewellery exhibitions in different parts of the world. However the promotion of products with such stones towards consumers is now related to some problems.
One of them is the struggle of the USA and EU state bodies and the branch associations of jewellers against so-called “bloody rubies”, otherwise, against the export of jewels from Myanma. Shortly before Christmas bills about burmese embargo have passed in both chambers of the American Congress. After the signing of the antiburmese bill by George Bush it will become valid. Simultaneously American legislators have strengthened their pressing over the US administration with the purpose "to press through" similar initiatives through the UN Security Council. It is curious, that even in a new film with Sylvester Stallone which is going to appear on screens, Rambo very opportunely struggles with “bad guys” in Myanma.
As to jewellers themselves, opinions in their environment are far to be unanimous. Some of them declare, that they have no idea about “bloody rubies” at all, and some actively support burmese embargo; a part of jewellers expresses doubt in expediency and address efficiency of adopted measures, and there are some people which proceed visiting burmese jewels auctions despite of official position of their countries.
Noisy campaign in mass-media excites consumers a little.
They do not show any substantial concern about the events surrounding burmese rubies, despite of their negative public reputation caused by the role they play in financing of the burmese regime. It has been shown by the analysis carried out in December by the Jewelry Consumer Opinion Council (JCOC).
Only 11% of interrogated have stated that they heard about the problems connected to burmese rubies, and among them a quarter has declared that they are very poorly familiar with the problem.
At the same time, among those who are familiar with the situation, 57% have stated, that they are not concerned with probably becoming buyers of rubies, while 40% believe that the purchase of rubies in the next year became less probable for them.
After the interrogated have been told about the situation in Myanma, one third of them declared, that they would not consider the question of purchase of rubies if they knew about their burmese origin, 47% were at a loss with an answer, and 19% would make the purchase despite of it.
But if the burmese rubies were offered at a much lower price than other rubies, 23% of interrogated would be ready to buy them, while 42% still would be not sure in their decision.
The interrogation also has shown, that a quarter of respondents probably boycotts shops selling burmese rubies.
In the alternative between burmese and artificial rubies, 14% make the choice for the first, 20% - for the second, 31% refuse the purchase, and 35% are at a loss with an answer. If in the trade there were no other rubies except for burmese ones, 14% of respondents would continue to buy them all the same.
But in opinion of the International Herald Tribune which regularly publishes materials on the matter, the ethics aspect will play an increasing role in the jewellery branch.
According to the data of GFMS agency, ethically pure gold jewels make no more than 1% of the market. Ethical products occupy the premium segment of the market, that is they are meant for solvent customers which are able to consume even in the conditions of a long crisis. Besides this part of the society frequently plays a role of an opinion leader.
In reply to the appeal addressed to trading organizations to stop the use of burmese rubies, Stuller Inc has just started saling natural raw rubies from Madagascar.
“We shall provide jewellers and designers who are concerned with the problem of “bloody rubies”, with an alternative source of the raw material”, Jo Orlando, the vice-president of trading division of Stuller, has declared.
At the Christmas Eve the Fabergé brand belonging to Pallinghurst Resources, has again reminded through mass-media of its plans of promotion to the market of high-quality emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Kevin Match, the legal director of the company, Has declared it in London. According to him, Pallinghurst hopes, that the name of the famous brand will add to the cost of stones. In the market of color jewels (both raw, and processed) Fabergé is going to use the marketing strategy of De Beers. The company also plans to enter the market with class lux products.
Finally, the American Commission of nuclear supervision has put an end to a semi-annual history with the irradiated jewels.
The Commission has declared that will not undertake any actions in relation to the already existing stocks of blue topazes, having stopped gamble concerning the destiny of the current stocks of this stone.
For now three companies have already got licenses for the check of blue topazes: Ideal Source Quality Assurance, HBM Virginia and International Isotopes.
A representative of the Commission David McIntyre has declared that jewellers should be guided by rules of the Commission and to be sure that stones received by them have been checked up in a licensed laboratory.
The Jewelers Vigilance Committee, according to its President Cecilia Gardner, recommends jewellers to give buyers a guarantee on the stones, certifying that they are imported into the USA and realized by one of licensees of the Commission of nuclear supervision.
Other stones which are exposed to the irradiation (aquamarine, yellow beryl, morganite and red turmaline), since the 30th of November are regulated by the same supervising documents of the Commission as blue topaz.
