As Ekaterina Istomina writes in the Commersant-Weekend, the jewelry line recently presented by Van Cleef & Arpels belongs to a class of the most basic, or one hundred percent proof, commercial jewelry. Despite the lack of a grand star status, all the Perlee jewelry pieces are made with remarkable taste and elegance intrinsic to haute joaillerie. Only rare jewelry brands can afford a usual and simple collection for everyday life by really attracting all their traditions, processing recipes and skill - moreover, not only the specific jewelry savoir faire but the art of savoir vivre which is far more important to the world of luxury.
At Van Cleef & Arpels the Perlee collection is described as “young, simple, full of charm and esthetics inspired first and foremost by the traditions of the jewelry house”. The main idea of Perlee as it is simply explained at the company’s central office is to “present the forms of round pearls in gold”.
The Perlee collection includes bracelets, earrings and rings made of white or pink gold with small white diamonds. The Perlee plot and ornament trace their origin to Alhambra, Van Cleef & Arpels’ legendary collection which made its debut in rioting Paris in 1968. The very first Alhambra pieces were shaped as a four-leaf flower surrounded by very fine distinctive embossing. Later the Alhambra jewelry underwent several versions of restyling of different depth. Now there is the Alhambra line of modern jewelry and Alhambra Vintage featuring jewelry which did not change since 1968. The four-leaved form and fine beading resembling round pearls assembled in a row are used in the Perlee Collection as well.
The artistic style of Van Cleef & Arpels (mostly in their basic commercial lines similar to Perlee) has always been distinguished by two significant elements. The first one is the unique elegance, the charm of small jewelry things for everyday wear. It would seem there is nothing more simple than to make a tiny piece of jewelry, some kind of a personal charm. But such a deed can be done only by veteran French jewelers like Chaumet or Van Cleef & Arpels. Of course, it is not easy to create a haute joaillerie thing but unique gems and elaborate compositions help. In case of tiny jewelry pieces there are no such possibilities and in fact they require something else. A small thing should necessarily have a vivid character and besides bear some big idea embodied in its tiny form. The second element which makes the Van Cleef & Arpels style so different is the faint charm of steady tradition. New jewelry of this brand is always a bit antique, vintage and old.
Perlee rings and bracelets are very similar to each other. They have ribbons made of gold and decorated either with a vintage “handwritten” Van Cleef & Arpels inscription or “pearl-shaped” beading or with the Alhambra four-leaf clover, its floral disk bearing diamonds. Many bracelets are fitted out with rather sophisticated snap locks. The gold wristband made in the Etruscan style tapering to the palm and featuring engraved texture resembling some African writings stands out high among the Perlee bracelets. This thing echoes the limited set of necklaces, wristbands and Creole earrings made in 1970 and admired by Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis. Therefore, not only the Alhambra line, but also the not-so-famous collection of the first lady of America serves to promote the antique aspect of Perlee.
The Creole-styled earrings of Perlee, rings with pearl beading which some time ago were also admired by Kennedy-Onassis are offered in three sizes. Let us remember that at present it is the Creole earrings, playful and simple, that enjoy top popularity in this genre.
