Antwerp is known worldwide because it’s the place where diamonds undergo comprehensive control of the origin. Only gems with a Kimberley certificate may be brought to the city on the Schelde River. Strict control prevents "conflict" diamonds from the market and strengthens the leading position of Antwerp in diamond ethics.
Antwerp also has gained universal reputation as the center where polished diamonds are graded and issued certificates. This work is done by the world’s largest laboratory operating at the Antwerp Institute of Gemology, engaged in grading gemstones in accordance with the standards set by the International Diamond Council.
Marketing manager Jennie Baeten kindly offered a tour of the HRD Antwerp laboratory to the Rough&Polished correspondent in Belgium.
Diamond certificates issued by HRD Antwerp are the most comprehensive and secure against counterfeiting.
"Our laboratory uses the latest technology and scientific methods", proudly says Jennie Baeten.
The quality of diamonds in HRD Antwerp is evaluated by four parameters, the so-called 4Cs: Carat, Color, Clarity and Cut.
The work with a diamond begins by checking whether it is a natural (including diamonds treated by high temperatures) or synthetic stone. The difference between them is that natural diamonds have a unique structure and characteristics. There cannot be two identical stones in the same way as there cannot be two identical fingerprints.
On the contrary, diamonds grown in vitro or industrially made diamonds have regular structure. However, it is almost impossible to define it by the naked eye and therefore the lab is using special equipment developed by HRD Antwerp experts.
After it is determined whether a diamond is natural or synthetic, experts begin to check it for transparency. Diamond clarity is one of the most significant factors influencing its value. Therefore this estimation needs special attention and reveals the so-called ‘inclusions,’ by which appraisers understand all internal defects and cracks formed during crystallization.
The clarity of a diamond is evaluated by means of a special 10x magnifying glass. The experts then proceed to the analysis of diamond cut quality and its weight. This process is computerized.
After that, they go over to defining the color of a diamond, comparing it against a reference stone which is colorless. This process is carried out "by eye," as well as with the help of special equipment developed in the laboratory. The same stone is analyzed at least by three people. If they do not come to a common assessment, a total of eight experts may be involved in the process.
The HRD Antwerp certificate contains a detailed description of the 4Cs and may be supplemented with a detailed description of your diamond’s 4 Cs. You may also order a laser inscription and/or a Hearts & Arrows drawing and/or sealing and/or co-branding.
All certificates are protected from forgery. The exclusive security features included in the HRD certificate are unique in their kind in terms of line structures, watermarks, embossed logos, fluo marks and micro texts. Some of these features are visible only using a loupe or when viewing the document under UV-light.
As for the cost of HRD Antwerp certificates, a "passport" with a full description of one-carat diamond will cost 75 euros. With a certificate you can be sure that the diamond is natural. As a supplement the laboratory offers to inscribe the certificate number on your diamond. The cost of this service, depending on the weight of the stone, is 16 euros for diamonds less than one carat, and 28 euros for stones above one carat in size.
Clients of the HRD Antwerp lab employing about 180 people are mostly Antwerp diamantaires.
In addition to the certification of diamonds and precious stones the laboratory prepares reports about jewelry pieces. There are also special training programs for professionals and diamond traders, as well as commercial programs for retailers.
This year, HRD Antwerp opened its affiliate in Mumbai, which also employs experts from Belgium.
Alex Shishlo, Editor in Chief of the European Bureau, Rough&Polished
