From year to year, it is becoming more difficult to fight initiations of jewellery design and copying just cannot be prevented notwithstanding that everyone is taking legal actions against it. To be one jump ahead of imitators and keep their positions, Italian jewelers invest in innovations, improve their technology and create new collections – something one-of-a-kind and special every year.
As for the original design traditions and highest mastership of Italian jewelers, it is difficult – if not possible – to be copied abroad. More often, the run-of-the-mill Italian jewellery is imitated, although not successfully. This practice has become popular at Chinese, Indian and Turkish factories.
It took years for Italian companies to hone their top-level skills and built up the important legacy setting the standards for world-level brands. The culture, originality and focus on quality are what distinguishes them from others and make truly Italian.
At first, “Made in Italy” just declared the country of origin. Nowadays, the “Made in Italy” concept is not just presenting the country, it is telling. And it tells not about ‘where’ but rather about ‘how’.
A “Made in Italy” label is firmly associated in the minds of lady-buyers with perfection, taste, traditions, creativity and elegance. This is what is a must-have. To wear an Italian jewellery piece is like wearing a piece of art with a rich historical heritage.
The Russian market, in particular, is overstocked with chains made by Turkish manufacturers using the Italian ‘templet’. What quality level could be expected from these chains if the gold chains made in Italian Vicenza are the works of art recognized in the world? Combining the work on special equipment (manufactured here) and manual craftsmanship, a jeweller is able to make just about 12 inches (30.48 cm) of a chain a day. It takes years to master this technique and those who achieved success in the arts create the best pieces in the world admired by the most seasoned jewellery connoisseurs.
The most world famous luxury brands are of Italian origin: Gucci, Prada, Bvlgary, Roberto Coin, Dolce&Gabbana, and Italian jewellery designers Antonini, Castato, Chimento, Mattia Cielo, Nanis, Roberto Demeglio.
Damiani is the language of the Italian style understood by all over the world. The company that won so many awards as no one else in the jewellery world – 18 Diamond International Awards for the ‘best jewellery design and the best diamond jewellery’. It was Damiani brand that set the important meaning of the “Made in Italy” tradition for jewellery design.
At the workshop held by the School of Italian Design this April in Russia for the first time, maestro Luca Bartoleschi shared with his Russian colleagues his experience in the latest technologies used by the Italian designers to give the uniqueness and singularity to ever-changing tastes and preferences of the clients. These include such techniques as using synthetic stones or special crystals; using resins of various colours and surface effects. Creative arsenal of the Italian designers has many interesting ways of surface processing including costly treatment of non-precious metal and gem surfaces. This makes the pieces look unusually and adds the impression of being ‘hand-made’. Pomellato and Marco Bicego are among the brands using the surface treatment as their distinctive feature.
Every Italian designer is notable for his continuing quest for innovations, use of interesting creative ideas and signature specialties. It is enough to recall the tiny ruby crystals of Roberto Coin on the rear of any his jewellery piece instead of his signature.
Among current design solutions for low-end jewellery there is a concept of element design ‘modularity’. This allows the clients to compose their ‘personal’ jewellery piece, the one and only. Unusual communication along with a low price attracts the customers.
“I wanted to create a precious bracelet which everyone can afford” (Paolo Gensini, Nomination, Toscana, Italy). This is how a ‘Composable’ appeared, a module bracelet that can be adjusted as you like. For example, make you name. There are over two thousand variations of symbols and letters made of various materials including gold, enamel, gems and semi-precious stones and polished diamonds.
One more interesting designer’s idea is the transformation that distinguishes the works of designer Laura Bicego, Nanis. Her creative jewellery, light and flexible, can easily be converted from one piece into another, for example, from a necklace into a bracelet enabling to enjoy it all day long.
However, not a single woman of fashion nowadays will pass by beautiful classic diamond jewellery. These are still in fashion. That said, it is possible to see more often that women wear a high-end ring in combination with costume jewellery – a brooch or a necklace. There appeared a clear trend (also when creating high fashion collections) to use alternative materials for jewellery on the equal basis with the precious ones which makes a piece look peculiar, and a person who chooses them gains individuality. Even some years ago such a choice could hardly be possible. Now, on the contrary, it creates an impression.
‘Jewellery history of Italy’ goes hand in hand with the creativity and craftsmanship of the best Italian designers and jewellers. Regardless of the times, the bright ideas, openness to experimentation, boldness in using advanced materials are inherent to the Italian design, the most unique in the world. The Italians value their history very much. Any jewellery brand when creating a collection first of all gets inspiration from his ‘home’, the place where his history stemmed from. A family, another fundamental value in the Italian culture, is at the root of a business success. The family ties and commitment to shared objectives are the source of the product viability, a unique heritage showing the thirst of Italians for beautiful things in the best way. When you do something that you like and cherish, the result is most efficient.
Veronica Novoselova, Rough&Polished
